We have been amazingly lucky managing to get away on a holiday for a few days. Given the restrictions around the world, being able to drive to a deserted coast, and stay there is so fortunate. Mozambican independence day on a Thursday gave us a good excuse for a long weekend. We decided to stay at Machubo. An out of the way get-away at the end of a sandy track.
We headed up to Maragra’s sugar plant (where Zoe works) on Wednesday. The kids and I had the day at the bungalow we have there, before heading out on the dirt tracks through the cane field just before the sun was going down. Once we got through the rows of cane we got into open grassland dotted with villages and little plots planted with corn. It was then a turn through a flooded bog and up into the dunes, before finally arriving.
The “resort” is essentially a central building where Lynne and Bertie live. With a bar/restaurant and a small shop for the essentials you forget to bring (a lifesaver we found!). There are then three houses to rent. On two opposite dune tops are large houses with multiple bedrooms and bathrooms and a huge central living area/kitchen. There is then also a smaller place to stay on the dune. We had one of the houses and were the only ones there. The place is normally alive with South African tourists, but, as the border is shut their visitors have all disappeared.
We found later they not only have this accommodation but also a caravan site for offroad caravans. It was quite entertaining taking an offroad vehicle over the steep sandy dunes. I’m not quite sure what the experience would be like pulling a caravan!
On the first night, we drove up to the house and had a look around as the sun was setting. Our house was perched on top of the dune looking out to the sea. All around us was the sand dunes, full of plants and wildlife, and in front of us were the waves coming in from the Indian ocean.
The waves never stopped, we had taken boogie boards expecting some surf and we were not disappointed. By mid-morning the next morning the kids and I were in the sea with boogie boards looking at the waves. On the first day, they were a little intimidated by them, but by the end, they were jumping through them and trying to surf them in. We staying in depth so we could stand up and caught some great waves, Further out there were some bigger waves tunnelling beautifully as they came in. Note to self, I need to get a roof rack and get my kayak down here.
The beach had a couple of shelters in to protect you from the sun in summer, but as it was mid-winter we didn’t need them. The sea was still warm enough to stay in for an hour or two happily without a wetsuit and the air warm and sunny. This isn’t winter like we are used to.
The locations of the resort is stunning. It’s a two-minute walk down the dunes to the beach.
It’s a two-minute walk the other way to the central house to get a well priced beer from the bar and some food when we (well I) didn’t fancy cooking.
We decided one day to visit the nearest neighbour. We set out on foot south along the beach for about half an hour. We then followed the vehicle tracks up into the dunes and towards another ‘resort’. The road seemed to be taking us a long way around so with the children (who had decided it was too hot to walk) we took a short cut and arrived next to their water tower before descending and arriving in their vegetable patch.
Once we left the lettuces behind we arrived in the central area of Lugar do Ceu. It was a lovely area with a grass-roofed bar, and wicker sofas and chairs around a pool. Although due to COVID restrictions/renovations the pool was empty. The children were also pleased that the food was described as pub food and burger and chips, Prego’s (hot meat sandwich with spicy sauce) were the order of the day. We got a cool drink, ordered some food and relaxed in the shade. The food was brilliant and we also got a chance to have a tour of their chalets and cottages as well as the camping spots. I think we might be back before too long.
We then had the walk back which I think Imogen was hoping was going to be via piggyback most of the way. When we started we had four or five dogs following us. By the time we had got to the top of the dune, we were down to three dogs. By the time we got to the road, we were down to one. We kept wondering when he was going to turn back, but he never did. In the end, once we got back to the house I had to get in the car and drive back along the beach to take him home!
The location where we stayed was just stunning and the remoteness and solitude were brilliant. With the surf, the beach the dunes and the wildlife we had plenty to do and came back well rested and a stunning break.
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