Dercio, our guide who had organised the trip and taken us from Beira, woke us early the next morning, ready to get to the top. The weather hadn’t improved during the night. It was a damp and windy start to the day with the scenery and weather feeling more reminiscent of North Wales than Mozambique. After a quick and basic breakfast, we headed off. Most of the porters stayed at the camp huddled around the fire. But about six or so came along, including Monica who wanted to see the top.
The route up in the weather was a wet, cold, windy slog. The rain was driving, being blown by the wind and kept everyone cold. Our waterproofs and fleeces were just about enough to keep off the chill, but without gloves, the kid’s hands got really cold. I simply walked with my hands in my pockets as much as I could. Although the top had a lot of rocks and cliffs, the route we were taking up avoided these and was a walk to the top.
With cajoling kids and warming them on the way we finally made it towards the top. Once we were close they cheered up and sped up, wanting to get there. The peak was marked with a Mozambiquan flag as it is the highest point in the country. We stopped for a few photos, a quick hot chocolate from a flask and then turned to head down as quickly as we could.
The rain had got stronger on the top, the girl’s trousers had got wetter and Imogen was starting to get cold. Luckily, as I led her down it wasn’t long before the wind died down and the rain eased. The further down we went the better the weather got. There were even signs of the sun poking out from behind the clouds as we wound our way back the way we had come to Mosquito camp. By the time we reached the camp, we were quite dry, warm and walking in t-shirts. Only a few remaining clouds in the sky gave a clue as to what the weather had been like just an hour or so earlier.
We had a snack at the camp and gathered the rest of the villagers, the food, tents and other equipment. I spend most of the time at the camp sitting or eating feeling quite exhausted. The plan was then to head back down to the waterfall and camp alongside it for the night. Zoe was keen on pushing all the way back to the car and first campsite, but I certainly didn’t feel up to it.
It didn’t take long to walk down to the waterfall, where Monica cooked us a wonderful bean and chorizo stew which was very welcome after the climbing and the amount of energy used just staying warm.
After the late lunch, the village chief shared a few stories. Legends and folklore from the village as well as tales about which mountains had been climbed and which had not. We then headed down the river for some exploring among the rocks and other falls. Although it was warmer again, it didn’t feel warm enough for a swim. We stopped at another fall to see the sun setting over the other mountains. We then had a pleasant evening under the stars by the fire, cooking marshmallows.
The next morning we managed to have a full cooked breakfast before starting the final part of the walk. After a very cold but clear night, the clouds had gone from the mountains and it quickly showed us it was going to be a hot day. Having done most of our walking so far in a long train with the tinny music and shouting around us we decided it was time for a change. We have tried to solve this before, but this was the first time we tried, which we should have done initially, asking the village chief. Once we explained it would be nice to hear the mountain streams and have a small quiet group he sent the porters off ahead, while us, Dercio and him made a smaller more peaceful group behind. Most of the morning they were well ahead of us. If we caught up the odd time the chief would send them on their way. It was nice to hear the mountain streams and birds, rather than the chatter and constant noise of the tinny radio.
The morning walk down was very pleasant moving from the grassland down into the trees and shade and back to following the river leading us back to the village and the car.
By late morning we were at the campsite, packing up ready to head back to Beira. The whole trip was organised by Dercio and his business Moz adventures. He did an amazing job and was great company on the trip. All we did was turn up and he organised the rest.
Chimanimani park is quite an amazing place and I’m interested in those peaks there that may not have been climbed before.
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